Short Flat Graduation

Short haircut for men
 
Step by step guide on how to cut a short men's haircut with flat graduation, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com
 
This short men's haircut is a flat short graduated shape referencing basic barbering techniques, resulting in a neat tailored backdrop with flexible, moveable over-hanging lengths for diversity of style.
 
Short men's hair cut - Before
 
Before: Jack before the cut.
 
Short men's hair cut - How to start
 
Step 1: Start with a vertical section in the side and work a tight square shape with the fingers. This initial line will provide a guide for later blending. Note that Stacey chooses to work his section in two parts, starting with the top and working down to maintain angle accuracy.
 
Short men's hair cut - Maintain square finger angle
 
Step 2: Continue with parallel vertical sections towards the front hairline, being careful to maintain your square finger angle in relation to the side of the head shape. This results in a flat graduated side area.
 
Short men's hair cut - Check the shading of the haircut
 
Step 3: Check your work visually. Be careful to check the shading which can indicate weight distribution, especially with barbering. Please note the squareness of both the vertical and horizontal aspects.
 
Short men's hair cut - How to maintain a consistent shape
 
Step 4: Repeat this process on the other side. Take care to adjust your body and finger positions accordingly to maintain a consistent shape.
 
Short men's hair cut - Cut with squareness
 
Step 5: Again, check your work visually. Note the squareness of both the vertical and horizontal aspects.
 
Short men's hair cut - Cut vertical sections
 
Step 6: Return to the first side and continue with vertical sections back towards the round of the head, using your front sections as a guide. This will incorporate the hairline.
 
Short men's hair cut - Cut the other side
 
Step 7: Repeat this process on the other side.
 
Short men's hair cut - Create a corner at the round of the head
 
Step 8: Now work with the centre-back and work vertical sections forwards to meet the previously cut side area. Be careful to overdirect to create a corner at the round of the head, which you will later refine.
 
Short men's hair cut - Hair cutting process
 
Step 9: Repeat the same process on the second side.
 
Short men's hair cut - Clipper-over-comb cutting
 
Step 10: Next, use clipper-over-comb - blending from the bottom to the top of your instigated shape. Initiate this process in the front where the highest short point will be and work back, blending to a lower point as you progress.
 
Notice that Stacey uses his comb to mirror his initial shape. In this way you allow the initial shape to be refined to the appropriate lengths, employing a gradual refining process.
 
Short men's hair cut - Cut hair with comb and clippers
 
Step 11: Notice how Stacey works the comb and clippers together in panels, subtly refining the shape. Start this process in the front side areas, then move in panels towards centre back.
 
Short men's hair cut - Cut the second side
 
Step 12: Repeat this process on the second side.
 
Short men's hair cut - Scissor over comb technique
 
Step 13: Stacey next refines with a scissor-over-comb technique, using a barbering comb which has fine teeth and flexibility. This allows stacey to work with the natural growth patterns, especially around the hairline.
 
Short men's hair cut - Connectg to the underneath lengths
 
Step 14: Next, bring down the top section and work a vertical section in the front hairline over the crown to the back vertical section. Cut a curved line longer in the front, working round and over the crown, getting shorter and connecting to the underneath lengths.
 
Short men's hair cut - Maintain length in the temple areas
 
Step 15: Then work parallel sections from the centre down to your initial shape, using overdirection towards the round of the head, maintaining length in the temple areas.
 
Short men's hair cut - Cut the other side
 
Step 16: Repeat this on the second side.
 
Short men's hair cut - Refine the crown area
 
Step 17: Now check and refine the crown area on both sides, eliminating any corners.
 
Short men's hair cut - Create texture with free-hand techniques
 
Step 18: Finally, use free-hand techniques to loosen the shape and create texture and movement.
 
Short men's hair cut with graduation
 
Finish: The result is a neat tailored backdrop with flexible, moveable, over-hanging lengths for a diversity of styles.
 
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
 
See also: How to cut a mid-length haircut for men