Long Graduation with Pivoting Sections

Long graduation with pivoting sections
 
Step by step guide on how to cut a long graduation with pivoting sections, from Stacey Broughton, myhairdressers.com. Long Graduation is the salon winner for the sexiest look. The result is a reduced commercial editorial shape, giving way to vibrant and beautiful curls.
 
Long graduation cut - Before
 
Before: Aslihan before the cut.
 
Long graduation cut - How to begin the haircut
 
Step 1: Begin with the front section, which runs from the centre parting to the nape. The section is slightly wider around the ear area, to accommodate the weak outline shape. This will vary in thickness, dependent on the hair quality.
 
Long graduation cut - Cut long lengths in a vertical manner
 
Step 2: Elevate the hair and twist it in order to cut from short to long. Notice how Stacey increases his angle as he cuts. This technique enables you to cut the long lengths in a very technical manner, using over-direction and accuracy of hand and finger position for refinement of the line, rather than using disconnection.
 
Long graduation cut - Increase the angle of elevation
 
Step 3: Continue with this process as you work this first section, taking manageable subsections with your fingers. As you work through this section, the angle of elevation is increased forward to maximize the outline length.
 
Long graduation cut - Check the concave shape
 
Step 4: Repeat this process on the second side for balance of texture and weight. Then check the internal shape, ensuring the concave shape is even throughout the perimeter.
 
Long graduation cut - Cut from short to long
 
Step 5: Return to the first side and work a section, pivoting from the centre parting across the round of the head into the nape. Take finger-size sub-sections, using the previous section as a guide and cut from short to long. Use maximum over-direction and elevation to create maximum length through the perimeter.
 
Long graduation cut - Divide the hair into two
 
Step 6: In the thicker areas of the section, divide the hair into two for ease and control.
 
Long graduation cut - Cut with maintenance of the length
 
Step 7: Repeat this process on the second side. Please notice Stacey chooses not to mirror his body position on the second side but to stand on his first side to maintain his cutting angle. Always cutting down from short to long guarantees maintenance of length. Accuracy of body and finger position when cutting this shape is essential.
 
Long graduation cut - Check the shape of the haircut
 
Step 8: Continually check the shape and balance, visually and technically.
 
Long graduation cut - Cutting process
 
Step 9: Continue with this process all the way into the back.
 
Long graduation cut - Divide the hair for ease and dontrol
 
Step 10: In the thicker areas of the section, divide the hair into two for ease and control.
 
Long graduation cut - Create a softer outline
 
Step 11: Next, take a round section, which defines the perimeter. Work the outline by elevating the sections, creating a softer outline throughout the shape. Work from the side areas into the back.
 
Long graduation cut - Bring down the crown area
 
Step 12: Bring down the circular crown area and take diagonal sections to refine and blend with the perimeter.
 
Long graduation cut - Check through the crown
 
Step 13: Check through the crown and refine the corner to blend.
 
Long graduation cut - Check the balance and weight
 
Step 14: Visually check the balance and weight.
 
Long graduation cut - Curls the hair
 
Step 15: This haircut can be dressed in several ways. Here, Stacey chooses to tong the hair to create a clean, smooth finish to the cuticle.
 
Long graduation cut - Tong the hair for curls
 
Step 16: Starting with horizontal sections, tong even sections of hair, wrapping from ends to roots. This creates a more defined curl through the ends.
 
Long graduation cut with vibrant curls
 
Finish: The result is a reduced commercial and editorial shape, giving way to vibrant and attractive curls.
 
Text and photos by MHD. Subscribe to view the training video!
 
See also:
 
The Channel cutting technique for long curly hair
 
How to cut a long hairstyle
 
Basic concave layer hair cutting technique